Beading and braiding for the fashion industry

Beading and braiding for the fashion industry

Tambour beading girls on a bus in Holmer Green, 1924. Stuart King Collection.

As lacemaking and straw plaiting declined in Chilterns villages, some women took up an alternative craft – making decorative trimmings or panels for hats or clothing.

‘Fancy-work’, as it was often known, included several sewing and embroidery techniques, but it seems that the work most often taken up in the Chilterns was braiding, lace-beading, beaded net-work, rouleau (piping) and by the early 20th century, tambour beading.

Piece of black beaded net-work, possibly made after Queen Victoria’s death in 1901. Stuart King Collection

Mrs Lou Dean from Holmer Green, tambour beading, c 1960s. Stuart King Collection

Although the numbers of women doing it were nowhere near the thousands who made lace or plaited straw in the 19th century, it is likely that the hand skills passed down from grandmother to mother to daughter and the proximity of the London fashion trade, gave rise to many women choosing this trade, working either from home or in small workshops.

Some entrepreneurial women became agents, liaising between homeworkers and the fashion houses in London.  Others supervised small village beading workshops.

Volunteer researcher Susan Holmes has produced important new knowledge about the beading trade.

Stories of Tambour Beading in the Chilterns Part 1
Stories of Tambour Beading in the Chilterns Part 2: Workshops and Business People
Stories of Tambour Beading in the Chilterns Part 3: Local Workers
Susan visited an embroidered arts exhibition in London in search of the lives of Holmer Green tambour beaders
And in this video, Susan introduces a 1950s recorded interview with tambour beader Mrs May Carter (1887-1976), who recruited, managed and trained hundreds of women in the art of tambour beading.

‘In Their Own Words. Olive May Carter’

 

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